Despite the fact that we really enjoy Jim
and Laurie’s company,
we didn’t come to Bishop Bay just to see them . . . nor did we
come just to pick up spare seals for the raw water pump. We could’ve done that
in Shearwater, saving ourselves 125 miles in the process (each way). And
despite the fact that we love natural hot springs, we didn’t come to Bishop Bay just to soak in them. These things
played a role in our decision but, more than anything else, we came north to make
one last trip up Gardner Canal – British Columbia’s most beautiful fjord.
But first the hot springs.
Bishop Bay is another favourite anchorage of
ours, but it’s a popular spot and boats come and go regularly throughout the
day, even late in the season. And while it’s fun meeting new people at the
tubs, our preference is to have them all to ourselves – something that requires
a watchful eye. In our experience, there’s a period of time each day when the
anchorage is empty, and that’s when we pounce. This visit was no different and
we managed two or three good, long soaks without another soul around.
By Tuesday it was time to move on, so we left Bishop Bay around noon and motored 29 miles north and
west to Europa Bay in Gardner Canal. Like Bishop Bay, Europa has a natural hot spring pools
to soak in, but it has a couple of problems. The first is access. The tubs are
on a steep shoreline and at low tide they’re a little difficult to reach. The
second is the water is temperature. It’s pretty hot and on a warm day, can be
downright unpleasant.
And then the wildlife.
It was close to 5 o’clock when we arrived and very warm
outside. . . hot, in fact. Too hot for a bath, so I opted for a paddle around
the anchorage in my kayak where there wasn’t a breath of air. I’d hoped to see
a bear but it was too warm outside. The salmon were jumping and there’s a
stream at the head of the bay, but I wasn’t able get back there myself. Despite
the rising tide, the water wasn’t high enough. But later that evening, I caught
a glimpse of what I was looking for – a large, beautiful black bear making his
way down the shore before disappearing creekside. It was only a fleeting
moment, but my first bear sighting of the season.
That night, I was woken up by a strange noise at 4
o’clock –
a whale was blowing in the channel. I couldn’t remember where we were and had
to work my way backwards before I realized we were tied to a mooring in Europa Bay. I got out of bed to take a look
around. Even in its diminished state, the moon lit up the night, throwing the
mountains into silhouette. Stars filled the sky and there wasn’t a breath of
wind on the water. I stood in the cockpit and waited, listening intently, and
then it broke the surface again and blew. I was too far away to see anything,
but it was a powerful moment nonetheless. One that left me with the following
thought: Now that we’re planning to sell the boat, opportunities like this will
be a thing of the past – precious, stolen moments that belong only to me . . . and
a whale . . . or a bear. The thought lingered as I struggled to go back to
sleep and the reality weighed heavily on my mind. I’ll miss this amazing place
and everything it’s given us. But more importantly, I’ll miss Cambria and all of the incredible places she’s taken us over the
years.
*From 21 August – 23
August, 2016.
11 comments
Your cruising grounds are so magical - bears, whales, hot springs, mountains and so on. I can imagine how much you'll miss it, and Cambria, but you're new adventures will be magical as well.
ReplyDeleteThey really are magical and we'll definitely miss it here (and Cambria), but it's time to move on. It sounds silly, but I want to spend more quality time with David (what? 24 hours isn't enough?) without the distraction a boat like this brings.
DeleteA wonderful watery world you have there. So beautiful :)
ReplyDeleteThanks, Jo. But we really are looking forward to getting back to your neck of the woods. We're both enjoying your pictures, especially the one from the beach the other day. David would take the bus there as a child for a day out.
DeleteWow! Hot springs, bears, and whales - so exotic, and I can imagine why you'll miss it. What a great adventure you have had with Cambria.
ReplyDeleteIt's always good to leave wanting more, and I think we've accomplished that!
DeleteAw, I can really feel how hard it is to part with this boat. I'd say to focus on the coming adventures you will have, but that wouldn't really do the power of this space between justice. Why is selling a boat so hard? For some of us, they live in our hearts forever, and the experiences feel like they are a part of the boat, and the boat a part of them; like somehow the sound of the whale, the sighting of the bear, live in the very bones of your beloved vessel. Parting from her is hard, I know. What a beautiful memory. (Not to mention that i am dead jealous of what you are doing next.)
ReplyDeleteCambria will definitely be in our hearts forever but we are excited about buying a new boat - - one with a washing machine and a place for David's guitars! It'll be great!
DeleteSuch great experiences and precious moments, Stephanie. I am so happy that you are still in tune with nature and wildlife. You will cherish these memories forever and are still - very consciously - experiencing them now. Bittersweet stuff... I have to say that the things I miss most about my life aboard are these moments of peace, solitude and wildlife. They are a thing of the past (for us) and they would be the reason to return to a life on the water.
ReplyDeleteIt's amazing how much a boat can bring to a person's life. The trick is taking the time to enjoy it all. The delicate balance between enjoyment and drudgery is starting to shift (I think you know what I mean) is starting to shift, so it's time. Neither one of us wants to get to the point where she's a burden.
DeleteBeautiful place! What lovely photos! Warm greetings from Montreal, Canada.
ReplyDelete