S.V. CAMBRIA: Top Ten Lists

The Best of Desolation Sound | Way Back Wednesday

Wednesday, December 14, 2016TheCambrians

It’s Way Bay Wednesday, an opportunity to dig through the files and pull out an old blog post to shed some new light on it. Over the years, I’ve written several posts about anchorages we’ve stayed in. Each one includes anchoring information (i.e. holding, protection, GPS waypoints), historical information and a list of things to do. So far, I’ve written 28 of these (they can all be found on our Destinations page) and they’re some of my favourite posts. For the next six months, I’ll be highlighting one every Wednesday (in order from south to north) and adding a new one here and there to help fill in some of the blanks. This week, it’s a return to the Desolation Sound area for some of our “best of” picks (the original post can be found here).

Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for navigation. It is purely an account of our personal experience in and around the Desolation Sound area of British Columbia.

Grace Harbour, Desolation Sound Marine Park (50°02.49N, 124°45.40W)

Grace Harbour, located off Malspina Inlet, is fairly ordinary compared to others in the area, but it’s our go-to anchorage in southern Desolation Sound when bad weather is on the way for two reasons: Good all-weather protection and excellent holding in mud. We rode out a series of storms there one September as a 970 Mb low moved over the Queen Charlottes producing 65 knot winds in Johnstone Strait and were very comfortable, seeing only 10 to 15 knots with gusts up to 20, while other boaters we spoke to later had suffered sleepless nights in Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove.

The entrance is clear but narrows down to about 300 feet before opening into a large anchorage with plenty of swing room in depths of 2 to 10 metres (6 to 33 feet). Like most destinations in Desolation Sound, the sea water is warm enough for swimming right off the boat but, if you prefer fresh water, there’s a half-mile trail at the head of the bay that leads to a lake, just make sure you’re willing to share your space with garter snakes before taking a dip to cool off. If walking is more your speed, there’s a trail that leads to Isabel Bay located at the head of the eastern finger of the main harbor. But be aware, black bears use the trail as well.

Isabel Bay, Desolation Sound Marine Park (50°3.15’N, 124°43.67’W)

Located along Lancelot Inlet and within the park boundaries, Isabel Bay is one of Desolation Sound’s less popular anchorages, but we have no idea why. It has just as much, if not more, to offer than the others in the area – islets begging to be explored by kayak, tidepools, warm-water swimming, beautiful views of the Coast Mountains, a trail that leads to Grace Harbour (located along the western shoreline and marked with orange and pink ribbons) AND cell phone coverage. What more could you ask for?

The main anchorage is behind Madge Island (as seen in the photo) where the holding is good in rock and mud and there’s protection from all wind directions (a stern line is required). But we prefer to anchor in the southwest corner of the bay or behind Polly Island where we can swing freely. It’s somewhat open to the north, but the holding is good in rock and mud. You won’t be alone in either location, but both offer plenty of peace and quiet even in the height of summer.

Walsh Cove Marine Park, West Redonda Island (50°15.98’N, 124°48.14’W)

Located on the northeast side of West Redonda Island, Walsh Cove Marine Park is a sheltered, picturesque spot and a good opportunity to escape the more crowded anchorages of Desolation Sound. It’s also an excellent place to launch a kayak and paddle around. The Gorges Islets are interesting to explore and, if you circumnavigate, offer a beautiful view out to the coastal mountains along Waddington Channel. And don’t forget to look for the ancient pictographs (rock paintings) located on Butler Point – they’re the best in the area.

To enter, approach from the south between West Redonda and Bluff Point (Gorges Islets). We’ve seen boats go through False Passage at high water but don’t recommend this approach because of underwater rocks (which are visible at low tide). The anchorage itself is deep and steep-sided, so most people anchor along West Redonda Island or Gorges Islets with a stern line tied to shore, but we prefer to drop down in the middle so we can swing freely. Depths range from 5 to 25 metres (16 to 82 feet) and the holding is fair to good in rock. The anchorage is open to the south, but offers protection from the northern quadrant. However, outflow winds from Toba Inlet can impact the area.

Unfortunately, Walsh Cove isn’t well-charted and cruising guides offer little additional help. The Canadian chart book 3312 has no detail, neither does our primary chartplotter, CMap (which is a commercial program). And Navionics has the information all wrong, listing depths of 10 metres (33 feet) in areas where there’s approximately 20 metres of water (66 feet) and 5 metres (16 feet) for 10 metres (33 feet) (though all three show the general contour of the anchorage).

Teakerne Arm Marine Park, West Redonda Island (50°11.12’N, 124°51.37’W)

Teakerne Arm has two must-see attractions: the best fresh-water lake in the Desolation Sound area and a 100-foot waterfall, both located in the northern arm.

Temporary anchorage can be found along the northwest shore in depths of 10 to 20 metres (33 to 66 feet) or near Cassel Falls. A stern line is required in either location, and there are eyebolts located throughout the anchorage for this purpose. The holding is only fair in rock and boats are subject to winds that can wrap around the northern point and funnel down the inlet. For better protection, anchor in the southern arm where the holding is fair in rock in depths of 5 to 7.5 metres (16 to 25 feet) (a stern line is required). Two nooks along the northern shore, called “Good Sex Cove” and “Great Sex Cove” by locals, offer the best shelter from northwesterly winds. But be advised, the area has been heavily logged in the past and we’ve fouled our anchor on old logging cables more than once.

To access the lake, take the dinghy to the park dock that sits at the eastern end of the northern arm. There you’ll find a short trail that leads to the top of Cassel Falls and continues on to the lake. There’s some rock scrambling involved, so it’s a good idea not to wear shoes that can easily fall off your feet.

Von Donop Inlet, Cortes Island (50°11.06 N, 124°58.95 W)

Because of its long, narrow, twisting shape, Von Donop Inlet (Hàthayim Provincial Marine Park) on the northwest side of Cortes Island is a veritable hurricane hole and the best protected anchorage in the entire area. It can be blowing a gale in Sutil Channel, and you’d never know it because very little wind is able to find its way inside.

The entrance shoals down to less than 2 metres (6.5 feet) at its narrowest point, and there’s a rock mid-channel about half way through which can be seen at low tide. When approaching, favour the southwest side and keep the rock to port. Note: There’s a saltwater lagoon in the northeast corner of the inlet that pushes a lot of current into the main channel, particularly during mid-tides.

There are several bights and coves along the 3-mile inlet that make good anchorages, but the best (and most popular) is at the head where there’s plenty of swing-room and access to the park’s hiking trails. The holding is good in mud throughout the inlet in depths of 4 to 12 metres (13 to 40 feet).

Access to hiking trails* can be found along the eastern shore at the head of the basin. The trails are located just beyond the outhouse and are unmarked, making things a little confusing. If you take the trail on the right, it eventually leads to an old fishery and the main road. If you turn left and continue walking another mile or so, you’ll end up at Squirrel Cove where there’s a general store and restaurant. The trail to the left leads to the lagoon. The lagoon can also be explored by dingy or kayak, but the entrance becomes a waterfall as its ebbing and entering and exiting (neither of which we’ve done) is recommended at high-water slack.

*There are aggressive wolves in the area that also use the trails.

Rebecca Spit Marine Park, Quadra Island (50°06.34N, 125°12.00W)

Rebecca Spit Marine Park was a favourite of our dog, Sally (who sadly passed away in June of 2014), so it’s a special place for us and we go back every year. With beautiful views out to the coastal mountains, it’s the quintessential Pacific Northwest beach with a gently sloping shoreline piled high with driftwood and granite rocks. There are walking trails that travel one end of the spit to the other and beyond through the protection of 300 year-old cedar trees, a large grass field for kicking a ball around or lounging, and picnic tables with fire pits lining the shore.

Entrance to the anchorage is straight-forward, but it shallows up quickly close to shore. The holding is fair to good in hard sand and gravel with depths of 2 to 20 metres (6 to 66 feet). Protection from the northwest can be found throughout the park with southerly protection at the head of Drew Harbour. But whether the wind is coming from the north or the south, if it’s really blowing, it can get lumpy in there.

The nearby Heriot Bay Inn (next to the ferry terminal) has a garbage dump (for a fee), propane, fuel, a restaurant and a pub (all good food), laundry and moorage. There’s a popular hamburger stand just up from the public wharf, a TruValue grocery store on the corner of Heriot Bay Road (David swears by their cream puffs), a BC Liquor Outlet and post office. If you need to buy more provisions than you can carry, someone from the store will drive you back to Heriot Bay.

Boat Maintenance Boatyard Hacks

Boatyard Hacks | Making Life on the Hard a Little Easier

Monday, November 28, 2016TheCambrians

If you look the word ‘hack’ up in the dictionary, there are dozens of meanings, from cutting something roughly to someone who gives a lackluster performance. But that’s not the kind of hack this blog post is about. I’m talking about the kind of hack that makes life a little easier – a trick or a shortcut. And not just anywhere, but where (for boaters) life is the hardest – in the boatyard.

Over the course of 15 years, we’ve hauled-out about a dozen times, including twice for emergencies (a leaking stern gland and a failed through-hull fitting). I wouldn’t say we’ve learned a lot (because there’s a heck of a lot to learn), but we have come up with a ‘hack’ or two along the way to help save money, to be kinder on the environment and to make life on the hard a little bit easier.

DIY Yards

In all the years that we’ve owned Cambria, we’ve only out-sourced work a few times – once to have a new dodger and bimini made, once to install the heating system (so it would be covered by the warranty) and once to have the injectors serviced. Not only does this save us money, but it gives us piece of mind – when we do the work, we know the job has been done right. Therefore, choosing a boatyard that allows us to do the work ourselves is a top priority. But because of increasing environmental regulations, they’re getting more and more difficult to find.

Planning Ahead

For our regular haul-outs, we have the luxury of planning ahead and shopping around for all of the things we need. A gallon of anti-foul paint costs around $180 at the local chandlery but can be found online for close to half the price. It doesn’t just save us money, it saves us time. The better prepared we are, the less time we have to spend running around looking for parts . . . or waiting on them to arrive. During our last haul-out, David decided to change the engine mounts out but, because we didn’t have a local mailing address, they had to be ordered by the boatyard. It took 18 days for them to arrive. And when they did, the threads on two of the mounting bolts were bad and wouldn’t mate together so we had to spend a day running around town sourcing the parts to make our own (in the end, it turned out to be a savings for us because the manufactured ones cost close to CA$500 and David was able to make them for CA$30).

For the Bottom of the Boat

3-M Paint and Body Scuff Pads: Back in the day, wet-sanding the bottom was the best way to ready the hull for a fresh coat of fresh anti-foul paint but most yards frown on that now, opting for dry-sanding with a power sander hooked up to a shop-vac. I do all of the bottom work myself and I’m not a big fan of the process – it’s messy and difficult to keep the sandpaper clean enough to do its job. I found using a 3-M Paint and Body Scuff Pad was a good compromise. It allows me to “wet sand” without using a hose by rinsing the pad in a bucket and dumping the waste water in the yard’s filtered drain system. I don’t end the day covered in anti-foul, there’s no residual dust from dry paint and the work space around the boat stays clean (at least by boatyard standards).
Petit Super Premium Prop Coat Barrier Spray: To protect the prop from marine growth, we used to apply a coat of Propspeed. When we were in New Zealand, we could get it done in exchange for a case of beer. But it costs around US$200 in the States. And while we have no complaints about its performance, that’s really expensive. The Petit Barrier Spray (known as Barnacle Barrier in the US) works just as well and only costs US$24 (we paid about $12 when we were in Canada).
PB Blaster: This hack isn’t limited to the bottom, but I couldn’t decide where else to put it. It’s a great product for lubricating, conditioning rubber seals and releasing any nuts and bolts that may have seized up due to salt water. It’s inexpensive (less than US$5 a can) and, as an added bonus, made in the U.S.A. The only downside is that it’s a naphtha spray and smells like moth balls.

For the Hull

Nu Finish Car Polish: A friend turned us on to Nu Finish a few years ago and we were so happy with the results that we’ve stuck with it. Although it’s labeled a polish, it’s not. Polishes have an abrasive component to them which can ultimately break down the gel coat. And Nu Finish doesn’t. It’s not a wax either. It’s a synthetic paint sealer with UV protection. It’s also inexpensive (approximately US$5 per application) and easy to use. We simply apply it to the hull with a damp sponge (no buffing required), allow it to dry and wipe it off with cheese cloth (another important boatyard hack). The process can be repeated after 30 days to remove any oxidation that has returned to the surface and the results last up to one year.
Cheese Cloth: As far as we’re concerned, there’s only one way to remove polish, wax or Nu Finish from the hull – cheese cloth. Unlike with microfibre towels, the gauze-like fabric cuts through the paste and clears it off in one swipe. It also shakes clean so there’s no globbing of paste in the material, lasts a long time and is inexpensive to buy.
Lemon Juice: I’ve already written a blog post about this, so I won’t go into too much detail other than to say lemon juice works well as a natural stain cleaner to get rid of those ugly brown moustaches that form around the waterline.
Oxalic Acid: Another great (and inexpensive) stain remover, but it does bring the copper in the anti-foul to the surface and can streak the anti-fouling paint.
Windex: Maybe we’ve watched the movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” one too many times, but using Windex works really well to clean the hull. Because you spray it on and wipe it off, there’s no need for a hose and the work space around the boat stays much cleaner.

Do you know any boatyard hacks? We’d love to hear them. Join the conversation in the comments section or on our Facebook page.

The A to Z Challenge Tips for Living Aboard Top Ten Lists

V is for Vista: 15 Easy Ways to Improve Landscape Photos

Tuesday, April 26, 2016TheCambrians

During the month of April, we're participating in the Blogging From A to Z Challenge where every day (excluding Sundays) we'll be posting to the blog . . . alphabetically. The overall theme we've chosen to tie all the entries together is living aboard a boat and cruising – things we've learned along the way: our thoughts, reflections, and tips for those just starting out or who are interested in this lifestyle.

Taking pictures is an important way to document time spent on the water and the Pacific Northwest is one of the most beautiful and dramatic cruising grounds in the world, but what we see with our eyes doesn’t necessarily translate well into a two-dimensional photograph: The shoreline is covered in evergreen trees. The water is dark and deep. The mountains are grey. And the snow-capped peaks blend into a cloudy sky. Because all of these elements lie in the same section of the color wheel, establishing separation to create depth can be difficult.

There have been countless times that I’ve come back to the boat to upload the pictures I’d just taken to the computer only to be disappointed. They may have looked great on the live view screen but, in reality, are uninteresting, overexposed, underexposed, crooked or the composition is all wrong. Eventually, I had to make a decision: should I carry on and be happy with what I get, wasting hundreds of dollars of equipment in the process, or take the time to learn a few things and improve my photographs. I chose the latter.

A camera is a complex tool, especially in the digital age. The manual for our SLR is almost an inch thick with 374 pages. And our super-zoom has dozens of settings to choose from – expressive, portrait, landscape, sports, macro, night time, parties, pets, babies, sunsets, beaches, snow . . . we can even take pictures in 3D – each with its own subset of options. It can be a little overwhelming.

But there are ten simple things you can do to improve your landscape photographs, many without leaving the comfort of the Program, or Auto, setting on your camera:

This photo is a good example of the first three points: a focal point (the wharf and boats);
background (the mountains and water); and the sky (there weren't any clouds
so the sky is positioned in the top third of the photo).

Find a Focal Point

All photographs need a focal point, including landscapes. The sky, the ocean and mountains are beautiful but a picture can’t be all background. It needs something, anything, to catch the viewer’s eye – a tree, a rock, a boat, a wharf. Take the time to look around before you shoot, thinking about what your focal point is and where to place it in the shot.

Think About the Background

Once you’ve chosen a focal point, it’s important to pay attention to what is behind your main subject and that you have separation between the two (i.e. don’t let them blend together destroying the impact of both in the process).

Think About the Sky

Without clouds or some other point of interest, skies can seem empty and boring. If that’s the case, try placing the horizon in the upper third of your photograph. However, if the sky is filled with dramatic cloud formations and/or colors, allow it to dominate the shot by placing the horizon in the bottom third of the picture, maximizing the amount of space the sky occupies in the picture. You can also use a polarizing filter to add color and contrast, or adjust your camera settings (i.e. by changing to sunset mode) to enhance the scene (more on that later).

This sunset photo was made more interesting by the fog, vertical orientation
and zooming in.

Use the Weather

Sunny days aren’t always the best time to take a picture. Bad weather can help create a more interesting scene and an overcast day that’s threatening rain offers an opportunity to capture a different mood. Look for storm clouds, mist, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises to add interest to your landscape photographs.

Change Your Point of View

Changing your point of view is an easy way to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. Move around and take shots form different points of view to see what happens – get down low, get up high, walk down paths or whatever it takes to shake things up and find the best perspective for your picture.

Change the Orientation

Don’t fall into the habit of only taking horizontal photographs. Sometimes vertical orientation can make the scene more powerful and highlight different features, such as a rocky beach or an interesting sky.

Zoom In

Not all landscape photography has to be from a distance. Take a series of pictures and zoom in to isolate a focal point for a more dramatic look at mountain tops, waterfalls or whatever catches your eye.

For this picture, Cambria fills the right third of the photo (with the dodger filling the
bottom third of that) and helps break up the foreground (the water).

Composition

It’s not enough to think about the background and foreground; you have to put them together in a way that’s compelling or your photos will be boring. There are several things you can do to add impact to your images but the simplest way to accomplish this is by following the “rule of thirds”. Basically, a grid is placed over your shot (through the live view or viewfinder) that divides the scene into nine equal sections. For the greatest impact, your focal point should be lined up along one of these intersections. You can also add interest to your photographs by framing them with trees, an open window, a bridge or something similar. Or use lines and geometric shapes, like roads and curves, to help draw the viewer’s eye. But again, I can’t stress enough how easily the “rule of thirds” can turn an ordinary scene into a more memorable and powerful photograph.

Straighten the Horizon

Landscape photographs feature the horizon and if it’s not straight, the entire picture is affected. Most digital SLRs and some point-and-shoot cameras allow you to use a grid overlay on your live view screen to help align your shots. Newer, higher-end cameras have built-in electronic levels. Or, if your camera has a hot shoe, you can buy a bubble spirit level for $2 to $6. If all else fails, you can straighten your photos with post-processing software like Photoshop; but cropping the picture can change its impact, so it’s best to get it right when you’re taking the shot.

Maximize Your Depth of Field

In landscape photography, you want as much of the view in focus as possible and the best way to achieve this through a small aperture setting (something in the f/16 or f/22 range if possible). Keep in mind that the smaller the aperture, the less light hits your image sensor and you may need to adjust your ISO setting (film speed) and/or shutter speed to compensate. This tip requires leaving the comfort of the Program mode and making a manual adjustment in either Aperture Priority (Av), Shutter Priority (Tv), or Shutter and Aperture Priority (TAv).

One of my favourite pictures of Cambria was taken by our friend, Bill Emmens, during
the magic hour before sunset.

It’s All About Lighting

A photo taken in direct light can seem flat and two-dimensional; but if they’re taken an hour after the sun rises above the horizon or an hour before it sets below it, when the light is softer, they come alive. Unfortunately, when you’re travelling, this isn’t always an option. You may find yourself in the most beautiful place at high noon or on an overcast day, leaving you with muted colors and either too much or not enough contrast.

There are some steps you can take to help, but you will have to leave the Program setting behind for most of them:

Adjust the White Balance

The white balance setting alters the color so the white objects in your photograph appear white. Most digital cameras allow you to fine-tune for clouds, shade, sunshine, fluorescent lighting, incandescent or tungsten lighting, and flash photography with the simple turn of a button or menu selection. When taking landscape photography, you can also use this feature to add color or warmth and make your pictures more interesting and dramatic. For example, sunsets become warmer if you use the cloudy setting and autumn foliage is warmer when you use the shade setting. The tungsten setting reduces the reddish color tones, making it good for nighttime shots. Play around and compare your results.

Change the ISO Setting

Raising the ISO setting on your camera decreases the quality of your photographs, causing your pictures to show more grain, and affects your shutter speed and aperture settings; but sometimes the conditions require it. Use a slow speed setting, such as ISO 100 or 200 for bright, sunny days and indoor flash photography. An ISO setting of 400 is more versatile and can be used for most situations – bright light, flash photography, overcast days and some action. And finally, use a fast ISO setting, 800 and above, when taking photographs in low light situations or faster action.

Avoid Underexposure

If the sky’s too bright, the camera will try to compensate by underexposing the rest of the picture and you’ll end up with a dark foreground. To compensate for this, you can adjust the EV (exposure value) meter on your camera, but be careful that you don’t overexpose the sky in the process. You can also focus the camera on a darker section of the scene (i.e. a group of trees rather than a granite mountain top) to achieve the same result.

Use a Filter

For those days when the sun is brightly shining, a circular polarizing filter will reduce glare and reflection leaving you with pure color. They don’t work, however, if you are directly facing the sun or if it’s directly behind you. For the best results, your back should be 45° to 90° degrees to the sun. A good way to understand this concept is to wear a pair of polarizing sunglasses outside and change your relative position to the sun. Raise and lower the sunglasses as you move and you can clearly see where polarization makes the most impact.

One of the biggest benefits of digital photography is that you can take several pictures of the same scene without wasting expensive film or waiting to have them processed. So take the time to play around and see what works best for you and your camera. Not only will you end up with better photographs to mark those special moments, but you may find a hidden talent or passion in the process.

Living Aboard a Boat Reflections on Cruising The A to Z Challenge

S is for Side Effects of Cruising

Friday, April 22, 2016TheCambrians

During the month of April, we're participating in the Blogging From A to Z Challenge where every day (excluding Sundays) we'll be posting to the blog . . . alphabetically. The overall theme we've chosen to tie all the entries together is living aboard a boat and cruising – things we've learned along the way: our thoughts, reflections, and tips for those just starting out or who are interested in this lifestyle.

Warning: May cause increased heart rate and breathlessness (due to incredible views), sweating (from hiking or other boat activities), nausea (from sea sickness) or shortness of breath.

Living-aboard and cruising are addictive and, for the last 15 years, have been our drugs of choice. Like all drugs, there are possible side effects – additional, sometimes unexpected, consequences from the lifestyle. But unlike its counterpart, most of the side effects from cruising have been positive.

Here are some of the ways cruising and living-aboard have changed our lives:

1) We have an ever-growing and diverse set of tools.

Prior to cruising, David’s toolbox was made up primarily of mechanics tools and mine had even less variety (a hammer, some screwdrivers and wrenches, if I recall). Now it includes tools for plumbing, rigging, woodworking, cabinet-making, electrical work, painting, varnishing, fibreglass work, air-conditioning, refrigeration, heating (to name a few) and keeps growing every year.

2) We’re a Jack (and Jill) of all trades.

David’s a mechanical engineer and has always been good at taking things apart, figuring out how they work, and fixing them. Owning a boat has stepped that up to a whole new level. Now he’s also a plumber, an electrician, a diesel mechanic, a shipwright and a joiner. As for me, I was a French teacher so, unless there were some verbs that needed conjugated, I had a lot to learn . . . still do (you should see the sheer panic in David’s eyes whenever I take a project on by myself). When I’m not busy breaking things, I’m an excellent assistant and equal the skills of any layman (or woman) in a boatyard.

3) We’ve become anti-social.

Cruising has brought out the introverts in us (I’ve actually always been one). We like people and making new friends; but the longer we live on the water, the more we prefer to be by ourselves. We’re not opposed to dinner or drinks with a couple of friends, but please don’t invite us to the potluck.

4) Trust takes on a new, deeper meaning.

I depend on David in ways that I never imagined I would . . . or could. And vice versa. When living on land, trust had a superficial meaning that we rarely, if ever, looked beyond. It simply meant we believed someone: That we had a level of confidence and faith that they were telling us the truth and we could count on them to act accordingly. Years of living-aboard and cruising have changed that and, today, trust is everything. It’s the foundation we’ve built our lives on: The complete knowledge that I’ve got his back and he’s got mine. Not only do we trust each other to be faithful and true but, more importantly, we trust each other with our lives in a way that I don’t think would be possible if we still lived on land.

5) Less really is more.

The less stuff we have to take care of and worry about, the happier we are (guitars excepted).

6) Modesty takes a backseat.

It’s difficult to live in less than 400 square feet with another person and be modest. You can try all you want but, in the end, practicality takes over and you’re showering naked off the stern just like everybody else.

7) We’ve discovered new hobbies and talents.

With cruising, comes time to learn more about yourself and try new things. David’s always been a Renaissance man and has had several interests and hobbies throughout the years – racing cars, flying planes, playing musical instruments, playing and coaching football (soccer), and on and on and on. Not only does he like these things, but he’s good at them (which is very annoying). For me, it was different. Apart from hanging out with family and friends, I spent my time working and studying. I’d go hiking on the weekends but, other than that, I made very little time for outside interests. That changed when we started cruising and, since then, I’ve built up a list of hobbies for myself . . . and discovered a hidden talent or two.

8) We have a heightened sense of awareness.

We know Cambria like the back of our hands. If anything changes, from the slightest sound to the faintest odor to the wind speed or direction, we’re aware of it and diagnosing the situation . . . twenty-four hours a day.

9) We see the world differently.

Experience changes a person’s perspective on life and how they see the world, and cruising is no exception. Living on the water and close to nature has emphasized the importance of respecting the environment – recycling, reusing and conserving resources – while meeting new people and visiting different cultures has helped us become more globally-minded and tolerant than we were 15 years ago (though, in all fairness, if we weren’t globally-minded and tolerant to begin with, we probably wouldn’t have been attracted to this lifestyle).

10) We became amateur meteorologists.

When we’re out cruising, the weather is one of the most important factors in our lives. To help make the experience more relaxing and safe, we’ve had to learn local weather patterns, where to access weather forecasts, how to read and analyze synoptic weather charts (and build our own forecasts based on the information), and how to read and interpret grib files – all of which is a daily job.

To read more about the side effects of cruising, check out The Monkey’s Fist, a site where cruisers share links to blog posts on topics about living-aboard and cruising.

Do you live-aboard, cruise or travel by RV? What are some of the side effects the lifestyle change has made in your life? Join the conversation below in our comments section or on our Facebook page.

Anchorages The A to Z Challenge Top Ten Lists

O is for Overnight on the Hook | What We Look for in an Anchorage

Monday, April 18, 2016TheCambrians

During the month of April, we're participating in the Blogging From A to Z Challenge where every day (excluding Sundays) we'll be posting to the blog . . . alphabetically. The overall theme we've chosen to tie all the entries together is living aboard a boat and cruising – things we've learned along the way: our thoughts, reflections, and tips for those just starting out or who are interested in this lifestyle.

The days pass happily with me

wherever my ship sails.

– JOSHUA SLOCUM –

Some of our happiest days have been spent at anchor. We love the freedom and privacy it offers. How it enables us to live independently and off the grid. And the Inside Passage is full of stunning bays to choose from, many of which are off the beaten path where you could be forgiven for believing you were the last person on earth. But what makes a good anchorage? And what do we look for when choosing one?

Primary Needs

Protection from weather. When choosing an overnight anchorage, protection from the forecasted wind and swell direction is our first priority. This is especially true toward the end of the season when winter storms start delivering stronger winds and when we’re anchoring in areas that are close to the open ocean, like the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Good holding. Having confidence that the anchor will hold in place is very important, so we look for anchorages with a mud or sand bottom where the anchor can really dig in and we can be sure it won’t drag.

Reasonable depths. We don’t normally have to worry about the water being too shallow for anchoring along the Inside Passage, instead, we have the opposite problem – the water can be too deep. It’s not uncommon for us to anchor in 20 to 30 metres (66 to 99 feet). And many anchorages, especially those at the heads of inlets, can be steep-to (where the shoreline slopes at such a sharp angle that the depth of water goes from deep to shallow in a mater of a few feet), which can make anchoring challenging and (sometimes) precarious.

Plenty of swing room. We like to spend time in intimate anchorages, ones that are small with narrow entrances and limited room inside. But when anchored, a boat swings (turns in a circle around the anchor) so it’s very important to make sure that there’s plenty of room to swing full-circle without hitting any obstructions inside the anchorage – things like rocks, other boats, shallows, etc.

Location. We’re always going somewhere, usually north. And sometimes our final destination is beyond the number of miles we can do in one day so we need to pick an interim anchorage to split the trip into two (this happened a lot in Alaska).

Secondary Needs

Scenery is important. The Inside Passage in one of the most beautiful places in the world and there are plenty of opportunities to find unique anchorages with million dollar views. To better our chances, we often pick bays that are part of marine and/or state parks and make the trip up fjords to see what’s hiding at the bitter end.

No logging. We try to steer clear of areas that have been logged, not only because of the unsightly scaring on the hills but because we’ve snagged too many logging cables that have been left behind by former operations when retrieving the anchor. In fact, we’re pretty sure we shortened the life of our previous windlass (an electric winch that’s designed to hoist anchors) doing just that.

Wildlife. I love bears and, despite David’s best efforts, I can’t help but go out to explore any time they’re around (I had an encounter once that concerned him but, really, it was fine). So anchorages that have a natural food source (berries, sedge grass and creeks) are popular with us along with mainland anchorages (for grizzlies). But we don’t discriminate, we like all forms of wildlife (except snakes, not really a fan of those . . . or spiders) and seek out anchorages that give us good access to viewing.

Activities. Some anchorages are just stops along the way and all we require from them is protection, holding, depth and swing room. But others are destinations in themselves and we want more, especially if we’re going to spend a few days there. First and foremost, we look for kayaking opportunities. Going out for a paddle is always possible, but some places are more interesting than others. I also like to hike, so I prefer anchorages with access to trails. One of my favourites is Octopus Islands Marine Park because I can kayak a couple of miles to a trailhead, hike a few more to a fresh water lake, and have a cold swim to clean up before making my way down and back to the boat – for me, it’s the perfect day! But David prefers a more slow-paced afternoon and likes to kayak around all the islets and rocks, watching the raccoons feed at low tide before coming back to the boat to play the guitar. It’s a win-win situation for us both. Anchorages with white sandy beaches and hot springs also rate highly with us. And then, of course, anywhere we’ve seen bears in the past ranks high on my list of favourites.

Shore access. When we had a dog aboard, shore access was a primary concern when choosing an anchorage. But now that we’re on our own, it’s no longer critical and more of a bonus because, let’s be honest, everyone needs to get off the boat from time to time and stretch their legs (some of us more often than others).

Onshore amenities. From time to time, we need to reconnect with the outside world to do laundry or buy provisions, so anchorages with access to onshore amenities like grocery stores and Laundromats are handy (especially if they keep us out of marinas). And if we’re really lucky, we can score an ice cream cone in the process!

Are you a boater? What do you look for in an anchorage? Where’s your favourite one? Join the conversation below in our comments section or on our Facebook page. We’d love to hear from you!

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