S.V. CAMBRIA: March 2017

March by the Numbers

Friday, March 31, 2017TheCambrians

You may have noticed that I haven’t written a “Word of the Week” post for a while. That’s because there hasn’t been a whole lot to write about. Winters are generally quiet times for us, and this year’s been no exception. Still, we have accomplished a thing or two that I wanted to share so I’m stealing an idea from Ellen over at The Cynical Sailor and His Salty Sidekick called “Month in Numbers”. It’s a list of random things that have happened over the course of the month . . . by the number. I wish I’d come up with the idea myself but I’m not that clever, so thievery it is! I hope you enjoy it and be sure to take check out some of Ellen’s best monthly posts here.

26 The number of days it rained this month. If that sounds grim, trust me, it was. Obviously, we had a few dry days but could only manage to string two of them together in a row.

0 The number of sailboats we’ve sold and/or put on the market. We are working on it, though, and might have something more exciting to report next month.

77 The number of narrowboats for sale online that we’ve looked at. We’re not interested in buying anything before we sell Cambria, but it’s fun to shop around and dream.

0 The number of green beers we drank in honour of St. Patrick’s Day. We had a few regular ones, though. These days, I stick to boring Coors Light but David’s more adventurous and recommends the Koko Brown from the Kona Brewing Company (Hawaii).

3 The number of blogs I wrote. I actually posted 10 (including this one) but only the three were new. Why? Because I’m a complete slacker.

9 Trips we made to our storage unit trying to find things we needed but had taken off the boat.

132 Hours spent at the storage unit looking for things we needed but had taken off the boat. Okay, maybe it was really closer to 9 hours but it felt like more, especially in the cold and rain.

6 Boat jobs completed, probably more. The biggest was adding ambient LED strip lighting to the v-berth.

8 The number of times I dusted. I don’t know if that’s a lot or not, but I could have easily dusted every day and still had dust to dust which begs the following questions: Where does it all come from? Why are boats so dusty? And am I alone in this struggle?

70+ The number of hours I spent working on a single drawing. I haven’t finished it yet, but I’m making progress.

1 The number of times David pulled out his guitar to have a little fun – he seriously needs to work on improving that number (all work and no play, after all).

And last, but not least:

0 The number of miles we logged on the boat. Zero’s never good but we hope to change that next month with a trip down to the South Sound for the Gray Skies Blues Music Festival in Tacoma and to visit some of the area state parks.

How was your month? Did you manage to stay warm and dry? Join the conversation below in the comments section or on our Facebook page!

British Columbia Central Coast Destinations

Briggs Inlet | Way Back Wednesday

Wednesday, March 29, 2017TheCambrians

It’s Way Back Wednesday, an opportunity to dig through the files and pull out an old blog post to shed some new light on it. Over the years, I’ve written several posts about anchorages we’ve stayed in, including first-hand anchoring information (i.e. holding, protection, GPS coordinates), historical information and things to do. To date, I’ve done 26 of these (they can all be found on our Destinations page) and they’re some of my favourite posts. For the next six months, I’ll be highlighting one every Wednesday (from south to north) and adding a few new ones in where I can. This week, it’s a return to Briggs Inlet in British Columbia’s Central Coast.

The Central Coast is a popular place during the height of the summer, not by the same standards as Desolation Sound where sharing an anchorage with dozens of other boats is the norm. But in a “Damn! There’s already another boat anchored here” kind of way. And the closer you are to Shearwater, the busier it gets. But Briggs Inlet, north of Return Channel, can be a really nice break from all of that.

It’s all about location and Briggs Inlet has the misfortune of being sandwiched between Roscoe Inlet (one of the most striking fjords along the Central Coast) and Spiller Inlet (home to Ellerslie Lagoon and Falls), so it’s understandable that it gets overlooked by most boats. But it shouldn’t. The scenery may not compare to that of its neighbours, but it’s beautiful in its own right: It’s narrow and intimate with rolling, tree-covered mountains and steep granite walls that embrace you, making you feel right at home.

But it does come with a couple of obstacles, starting with the First Narrows. About 2.5 miles from the entrance, Briggs Inlet takes a turn westward and tapers down to 80 metres (262 feet), causing a large section of turbulent water. Somehow David and I both missed this piece of information when planning our route and hit the narrows on a rising tide when it was running 3 knots. The flow was laminar but the water was active for a half-mile or so and included upwellings and small whirlpools that did a good job of kicking Cambria around. Travelling with the current, it wasn’t an issue but we made sure to time our arrival the following day closer to slack tide.

Just north of the First Narrows lies Emily Bay, a beautiful and quiet anchorage with good holding and protection. But it also offers something else that’s pretty rare in that part of the world – a short hike. A primitive trail that passes through a fish hatchery run by the Heiltsuk Nation out of Bella Bella is located at the head of the bay. Some changes have taken place over the last few years and the conditions that were described in the Douglass cruising guide, “Exploring the North Coast of Bristish Columbia” have been improved. It’s still on the undeveloped side and difficult to follow at times, but new boardwalks and bridges have been installed and access is more straightforward. There’s a slight rise in elevation (about 30 metres or 100 feet) over the span of a quarter mile or so and the trail leads to the head of Emily Lake.

North of Emily Bay, the inlet continues to Briggs Lagoon and the second narrows. We weren’t interested in taking Cambria through a poorly charted entrance that Douglass describes as a set of rapids and tight, so that ended our exploration of Briggs Inlet . . . by boat. We did, however, make it to the lagoon from a trail located at the head of Boukind Bay (Roscoe Inlet). It wasn’t the most adventurous way to see the rest of Briggs Inlet, but it was the easiest and didn’t require waiting for high water slack to get in and out. It was also another opportunity to get off the boat and stretch our legs. And that, along with everything else, is what made Briggs Inlet worth visiting.

Waypoints of Interest:

First Narrows: 52°21.587 N, 128°00.448 W

Emily Bay: 52°23.527 N, 127°59.979 W (Approach)

52°23.519 N, 128°00.692 W (Anchorage)

Boukind Bay: 52°26.733 N, 127°56.203 W (Approach)

52°27.786 N, 127°56.257 W (Anchorage)

Things to Do:

Take a hike to Emily Bay (Briggs Inlet).

Take a hike to Briggs Lagoon (Roscoe Inlet).

Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for navigation. It is solely an account of our personal experience and anchor locations in Briggs Inlet during settled weather conditions. What worked for us at one particular time is no guarantee or indication that it will work for others. There are no services in the immediate area and any boat that enters should be self-sufficient.

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Monday, March 27, 2017TheCambrians

Central Coast Destinations Roscoe Inlet

Roscoe Inlet | Way Back Wednesday

Wednesday, March 22, 2017TheCambrians

It’s Way Back Wednesday, an opportunity to dig through the files and pull out an old blog post to shed some new light on it. Over the years, I’ve written several posts about anchorages we’ve stayed in, including first-hand anchoring information (i.e. holding, protection, GPS coordinates), historical information and things to do. To date, I’ve done 26 of these (they can all be found on our Destinations page) and they’re some of my favourite posts. For the next six months, I’ll be highlighting one every Wednesday (from south to north) and adding a few new ones in where I can. This week, it’s a return to Roscoe Inlet in British Columbia’s Central Coast.

Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for navigation. It is solely an account of our personal experience and anchor locations in Roscoe Inlet during settled weather conditions. What worked for us at one particular time is no guarantee or indication that it will work for others. There are no services in the immediate area and any boat that enters should be self-sufficient.

Roscoe Inlet is 23 miles long, but the real journey doesn’t begin until one mile south of Boukind Bay. It’s there that the channel forks to the east, narrows and takes on a serpentine route that carries boaters the remaining 12 miles through some of the most breathtaking scenery along the Central Coast. The upper reaches of the Roscoe Inlet are dramatic, especially on an overcast day when the scenery seems to develop in monochrome like an Ansel Adams photograph, and easily one of the most beautiful places along the British Columbia coast.

The inlet, on average, is less than a half-mile wide and bordered by steep granite domes that rise up from the sea and reach heights above 1,000 metres (3,300 feet). Snow-capped ridges line the waterway. And evergreens spread upward from the shoreline where they cling onto the rock for dear life. These are just a few of the sights Roscoe Inlet has to offer. Every turn through her goosenecks has something else to share until you reach the head and, sadly, the passage is over.

Anchorages:

Clatse Bay: Clatse Bay is located 5 miles south of Boukind Bay and offers good protection in most weather. A shoal along the east shore extends mid-channel near the entrance to the inlet but is clear beyond that. Good holding can be found in 16 to 20 metres (53 to 66 feet) in mud near the head of the bay.

Anchorage can also be found in Shack Bay (1.5 miles north of Clatse Bay) along the eastern shore of Roscoe Inlet, but we haven’t anchored there ourselves. We’ve been told by Nearly Normal Norman that there’s an old logging road that leads to Ocean Falls located in the bay.

Boukind Bay: When visiting Roscoe Inlet, Boukind Bay is our first stop. The bottom is flat, there’s ample swing room, there’s good protection in most weather and it has good holding in mud (in reasonable depths of 9 to 12 metres). It’s also conveniently located one mile north of Roscoe Narrows and a good base for exploring the inlet.

Quartcha Bay: Quartcha Bay is located 5 miles from Roscoe Narrows and is a beautiful glacial valley surrounded by high mountains and waterfalls BUT the bottom is steep-to and we weren’t able to find a place to anchor off the marsh at the head of the bay that we considered safe enough for an overnight stay.

The Bitter End: According to the Douglass cruising guide, “Exploring the North Coast of British Columbia”, the head of Roscoe Inlet rarely sees any wind. And while it’s true that it normally dies out before at the final gooseneck, we have seen afternoon breezes pick up while anchored there. The shore is steep-to but it’s possible to find anchorage in 16 to 20 metres (53 to 66 feet) along the southern shore east of the creek where the holding is very good in sand and mud.

Waypoints of Interest:

Clatse Bay:

52°21.915’N, 127°51.581’W (Approach)

52°20.527’N, 127°50.650’W (Anchorage)

Boukind Bay:

52°27.069’N, 127°56.262’W (Approach)

52°27.772’N, 127°56.262’W (Anchorage)

Quartcha Bay:

52°29.960’N, 127°50.871’W

The Bitter End:

52°27.064’N, 127°43.300’W

Things to Do:

Kayaking is always at the top of the list of activities when we visit Roscoe Inlet.

Walk to Briggs Lagoon (Boukind Bay).*

An orange trail marker is located along the eastern shore in Clatse Bay, but we didn’t investigate.

Walk to Twin Lakes or Ocean Falls from Shack Bay.*

* Be bear aware!

Note: On our first visit, it was an overcast day without a breath of wind. In our opinion, this is the best way to experience the drama of Roscoe Inlet. The granite domes reflect beautifully off the water and the deer flies, a major issue on sunny days, are nowhere to be found.

Central Coast Destinations Shearwater

Shearwater | Way Back Wednesday

Tuesday, March 14, 2017TheCambrians

Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for navigation. It is purely an account of our personal experience in Shearwater during settled weather conditions.

Sooner or later, most boats cruising the Central Coast find themselves in Shearwater, not because of awe-inspiring landscape or historical significance; it’s quite ordinary in those regards. But because of the services it offers along with one other key ingredient – location, location, location!

Situated two miles southeast of Lama Passage, the main route north, Shearwater lies along the northern side of Denny Island and is the only major marine service area with repair and haul-out facilities from Port Hardy, at the tip of Vancouver Island, to Prince Rupert, near the Alaskan border.

Shearwater began its life as a Royal Canadian Air Force seaplane base for Canadian and American pilots during World War II. In 1947, the property was purchased by Andrew Widsten who kept the name and turned the base, including a plane hanger that now acts as a shop, into a fishing resort. Over the years, the property has expanded and not only serves anglers and boaters, but is an important part of the communities of Denny Island and nearby New Bella Bella, providing both with jobs and a social center.

The resort continues to be family owned and in 2013, Craig Widsten unveiled a mural entitled “United in History” that he’d commissioned to be painted on the shop wall. The mural depicts 17 people who have impacted Shearwater over the years – from First Nation tribal leaders to Andrew Widsten himself. At the same time, a waterfront memorial to the Bella Bella Royal Canadian Air Force was dedicated and includes a warrior pole, a replica of a WWII seaplane that rotates like a weather vane, and an obelisk commemorating veterans of the war.

On shore you’ll find just about everything you need . . . and more. The facility has 1500 feet of guest moorage with power and water, but gets busy during the summer months so reservations are recommended. A floating breakwater just outside the marina area can also be used to tie up, but there’s no power, water or direct land access. Anchorage can be found south of Shearwater Island and east of the breakwater in 5 to 20 metres (16 to 66 feet) with protection from northerly winds: The holding is good in rock and mud (last year we held well in 25+ SE – it was uncomfortable and annoying at times, but fine otherwise). The head of the bay offers southerly protection and the holding is good in mud with depths of 5 to 10 metres (16 to 33 feet).

The fuel dock is located along the southern edge of the marine resort near the ferry terminal and sells diesel, petrol, propane, oil, Avgas and Jet A. The boatyard can handle vessels up to 70 tons; and if you find yourself in need of outside help to address an issue, a marine mechanic is on hand. But you’re going to pay a premium. Not necessarily for the haul-out itself, but for the labour (an hour minimum plus shop time and parts).

The marine supply store is well-stocked with a good selection of Canadian charts, cruising and tidal guides, fishing supplies and boat parts. If they don’t have what you need on their shelves, they can probably order it in from Port Hardy, but expect to pay a high price for delivery in most cases. They also carry a good range of reasonably priced jackets, tee-shirts and hats with the Shearwater Resort logo.

The grocery store also houses a post office and liquor store and has seen improvements over the years. They added two larger freezers for meats, one for chicken and the other for beef and pork. The produce section has also been expanded. It’s a small store, but they offer a good range of items to choose from and it’s the best provisioning stop until you reach Prince Rupert. For the greatest selection, shop on freight day when the barge arrives with new stock from Port Hardy. In the past, that’s been on Mondays but, if in doubt, ask around before you reach Shearwater or phone ahead (although that’s easier said than done).

If you need a night away from the boat, the restaurant and pub offer a complete menu. The service is excellent but, unfortunately, we can’t recommend the food. We’ve eaten in the pub several times and left feeling like we’d wasted our money (in all fairness, we don’t eat out much and generally feel that way). We heard, however, that breakfast is good . . . and the beer is always cold. The pub has live music and regular entertainment (check their calendar). And, if you have a dog aboard, Fido’s welcome to join you for drinks or a meal on the smoking patio outside.

Shearwater is one of the few places along the Central Coast that has cell phone reception. The resort installed a booster system to reach the towers in New Bella Bella (2.5 nm away) and the signal is very good throughout Kliktsoatli Harbour. The resort also has wi-fi and opened up their signal a couple of years ago, so it’s now free. Information sheets are posted throughout the resort with instructions on how to access the network and when it’s available (the main system goes offline when the store is closed). The signal is strong enough that it’s easily seen at anchor, but a booster may be required for the best results.

Shearwater Marine Resort Services:

1500 feet of moorage that’s open all year
Fuel dock
Free wi-fi
Cellular coverage
Ice
ATM
Propane at the marine supply store
Showers and Laundromat
Gift shops
Marine supply store
Restaurant and pub
Grocery store
Post Office
Garbage and recycling station
Waste oil dump
Boatyard that handles vessels up to 70 tons
Water taxi service to New Bella Bella
Lodging
RV park and campground
BC Ferry terminal
Helipad
3,000 foot paved airstrip
Fishing adventures
Eco adventures
Airline service in New Bella Bella

Contact Information:

VHF Channel 66A
(250) 957-2666
Email: moorage@shearwater.ca
Website: www.shearwater.ca

March by the Numbers

Briggs Inlet | Way Back Wednesday

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Roscoe Inlet | Way Back Wednesday

Shearwater | Way Back Wednesday

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