S.V. CAMBRIA: June 2016

Sum It Up Sunday | Bute Inlet to Queen Charlotte Strait

Monday, June 27, 2016TheCambrians

There's a running joke in the Pacific Northwest: Summer starts on the fifth of July and ends on the sixth. I hate to admit it, but there might be some truth to that. Every time it looks like settled weather is finally here, the proverbial football is pulled away. We can be wearing shorts and t-shirts one day, sweating in the heat of the afternoon, and find ourselves back in layers and rain gear the next. It's frustrating, but par for the course this time of year.

Cambria at anchor in the Octopus Islands.

I was optimistic when the week started: It was the official start of summer, the clouds had moved out, the sun was shining and I spent the day in one of my favourite ways -- hiking. Still anchored in Octopus Islands Marine Park, I launched my kayak, paddled to the head of Waiatt Bay and walked up to Newton Lake. I'd been itching to get out on a trail, any trail, and was happy to finally have the opportunity. It's only 1.5 miles long, but that was enough to reduce my world to 2-feet wide for a while and get excited about the prospect of going swimming in the cold lake water.

There was already a couple camped out on the main bathing rocks, so I hiked up to the second set along the eastern shore where I was alone and in full view of the afternoon sun. It was lovely! The water was cold and invigorating, washing the sweat and dirt from the day away, and the rocks emanated warmth. I was in absolute heaven. And things were only going to get better – we were going up Bute Inlet for the first time.

The Inside Passage is a diverse cruising ground where you can find everything from white sand beaches that look like they're straight out of the South Pacific to tidewater glaciers at the head of mountainous fjords. And while both David and I enjoy the variety and try to take advantage of it, fjords are our favourite and we devote our cruising season to exploring as many as we can – old and new. But because of timing and weather, Bute has eluded us in the past. That finally changed this week and Tuesday morning, we upped anchor and made a run up Bute Inlet.

One of the nice things about Octopus Islands Marine Park is that it's surrounded by tidal rapids and there are only three or four times a day (depending on when slack tide occurs) that boats can come and go which makes it a quiet spot. But it meant that we weren't able get started until 11 o'clock and would need to spend the night at the head of the inlet in Waddington Harbour which, as it turns out, feels pretty exposed and more of a roadstead anchorage than anything else. There are several anchoring options to choose from when looking at the chart, but they're all open to the inflow winds.

Bute Inlet was another one of those ideas that looks much better on paper than it does in reality. It's a beautiful fjord, but it's been heavily logged over the years and clear-cutting scars the mountains along the entire length. The few anchoring opportunities along the 35-mile fjord have been taken over by large-scale logging operations or fishing resorts – things we try to avoid. And, contrary to what we read in cruising guides, the inflow winds don't die out when you reach the head. We did manage to find a spot along the eastern shore where we got out of the bulk of it but weren't able to avoid the chop, which stuck around most of the night. Unfortunately, there was no turning around. It was already too late in the day and there was no way we were going to bash against the 25+ knot winds we'd seen coming up-inlet.

Ready to get out of there as soon as we could, we left at 6:00 am when the tide changed and rode the current down-inlet and moved on through Yuculta and Dent Rapids to Shoal Bay to visit owners, Mark and Cynthia MacDonald. One day turned into two and then into three, which is often the case in Shoal Bay.

Cambria at anchor in Shoal Bay with a beautiful view up Phillips Arm.

The forecast for nearby Johnstone Strait for the coming days was for strong northwesterlies, so it was time to make a move or risk being stuck for days. We upped anchor at 7:00 Saturday morning and made our way through the Discovery Islands, into Johnstone Strait, tucking into Port Harvey, up Chatham Channel and anchoring in Cutter Cove for the night. We were off again the next morning, weighing our options while we were underway: Anchor in Farewell Harbour for the night? No, it's too close to Johnstone Strait. Move on to Cullen Harbour? It's in Queen Charlotte Strait where the winds are forecasted to be lighter but still in the Broughton Archipelago and prone to foggy conditions. Or put another 50 miles under our keel and bash our way to Blunden Harbour where we'll be out of the worst of the wind and marine layer. We chose the latter.

It wasn't an easy decision. The forecast was for the wind to build to 20 knots from the northwest, right on our nose. We knew it would be lumpy and a long day, but the benefits outweighed the disadvantages and won out in the end. It was a tough run and we saw everything from dense fog to 25+ knot winds on the nose with a two to three foot chop to bash against. Cambria's a solid and comfortable boat and had no problem making her way through the mess of white caps but it was difficult making out the logs and debris in the water and we were pretty tired by the time all was said and done. The upside is now we get to wait out the winds in a well-protected anchorage before the next leg of our journey which will take us around Cape Caution and into open-ocean.

Desolation Sound Destinations

The Best of Desolation Sound

Wednesday, June 22, 2016TheCambrians

Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for navigation. It is purely an account of our personal experience in and around the Desolation Sound area of British Columbia.

It seems ironic that Captain George Vancouver chose the name Desolation Sound for what's now one of British Columbia's busiest and largest marine parks. But in 1792, when Vancouver was surveying the Inside Passage, that's what he found – desolation. The scene is much different today, especially during the summer months when thousands of boaters visit the area to enjoy its protected anchorages, warm-water swimming, fresh-water lakes and mountain views.

The actual park boundary lies to the west of Sarah Point, stopping just beyond Prideaux Haven, and follows along Lancelot Inlet. But there are dozens of other anchoring opportunities outside the park limits, equally as spectacular, that have come to be included in what's now recognized as "Desolation Sound". Many of them are well known, while others remain quiet retreats during the busy summer months.

Moving in a counter-clockwise direction from Sarah Point, the following are some of our favorites:

Grace Harbour, Desolation Sound Marine Park (50°02.49N, 124°45.40W)

Grace Harbour, located off Malspina Inlet, is fairly ordinary compared to others in the area, but it's our go-to anchorage in southern Desolation Sound when bad weather is on the way for two reasons: Good all-weather protection and excellent holding in mud. We rode out a series of storms there one September as a 970 Mb low moved over the Queen Charlottes producing 65 knot winds in Johnstone Strait and were very comfortable, seeing only 10 to 15 knots with gusts up to 20, while other boaters we spoke to later had suffered sleepless nights in Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove.

The entrance is clear but narrows down to about 300 feet before opening into a large anchorage with plenty of swing room in depths of 2 to 10 metres (6 to 33 feet). Like most destinations in Desolation Sound, the sea water is warm enough for swimming right off the boat but, if you prefer fresh water, there's a half-mile trail at the head of the bay that leads to a lake, just make sure you're willing to share your space with garter snakes before taking a dip to cool off. If walking is more your speed, there's a trail that leads to Isabel Bay located at the head of the eastern finger of the main harbor. But be aware, black bears use the trail as well.

Isabel Bay, Desolation Sound Marine Park (50°3.15'N, 124°43.67'W)

Located along Lancelot Inlet and within the park boundaries, Isabel Bay is one of Desolation Sound's less popular anchorages, but we have no idea why. It has just as much, if not more, to offer than the others in the area – islets begging to be explored by kayak, tidepools, warm-water swimming, beautiful views of the Coast Mountains, a trail that leads to Grace Harbour (located along the western shoreline and marked with orange and pink ribbons) AND cell phone coverage. What more could you ask for?

The main anchorage is behind Madge Island (as seen in the photo) where the holding is good in rock and mud and there's protection from all wind directions (a stern line is required). But we prefer to anchor in the southwest corner of the bay or behind Polly Island where we can swing freely. It's somewhat open to the north, but the holding is good in rock and mud. You won't be alone in either location, but both offer plenty of peace and quiet even in the height of summer.

Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound Marine Park (50°08.74'N, 124°41.03'W)

It's no exaggeration when I say Prideaux Haven is the most beautiful anchorage in the area, but it's also the busiest. So, if you prefer to avoid the crowds, it's best to visit before mid-June or after Labor Day weekend.

The entrance to the anchorage looks more difficult on paper than it is in reality: The channel is narrow but clear with depths of 5 metres (16 feet) at low tide. If you're still not convinced, follow the advice laid out in "A Dreamspeaker Cruising Guide: Desolation Sound" and line up with the park sign on Williams Islands before turning to starboard and entering between Lucy Point (Eveleigh Island) and the Oriel Rocks.

Once inside, there's plenty of room to anchor throughout the large bay with good holding in mud in depths of 6 to 18 metres (20 to 60 feet) and protection from all quadrants. Other options include Melanie and Laura Coves as well as several bights outside of Cobblestone and Roffey Islands, but check your charts carefully: The area is littered with underwater rocks.

It's not difficult to find ways to pass the time in Prideaux Haven with plenty of islets, lagoons and bays to explore by kayak or dinghy. In the summer, the water is warm enough for swimming, especially in the shallow lagoon located off Cobblestone Island. To stretch your legs, there's a mile long trail from the head of Melanie Cove to Laura Cove that was originally blazed by the famous hermits of Prideaux Haven. And, as an added bonus, there's cell phone coverage inside the anchorage.

Roscoe Bay Marine Park, West Redonda Island (50°09.69'N, 124°45.45W)

Roscoe Bay is a yet another beautiful, undeveloped provincial marine park located at the southeastern side of West Redonda Island, offering views out to Waddington Channel and Mount Addenbroke. The anchorage itself offers good protection from all directions, though we've been told by people with local knowledge that southeasterlies can make it uncomfortable and dangerous at times. The holding is good in mud with depths of 4 to 10 metres (13 to 33 feet), but we have been there when boats have dragged – a result of poor anchoring rather than the conditions.

The entrance to Roscoe Bay, which dries at zero tide, is narrow. But, if you time your arrival with a rising tide and according to your boat's draft while favouring the south shore slightly, it's fairly straight-forward with an average depth of 3.5 metres (12 feet) at high water. Once inside, you'll find plenty to do. A short trail at the head of the bay leads to Black Lake. Follow it beyond the kayak launching point, continue up the hill and take the first trail on the left to the bathing rocks for a fresh-water swim. If you have a kayak, portage it the short distance to the lake for a paddle around – you won't be disappointed. Or if walking is your thing, the trail continues and runs through rainforest to a lookout of the lake (with obstructed views).

For a more strenuous hike, there's a trail that leads to the top of Llanover Mountain located on the northern side of the anchorage (just west of the grassy knoll) near the information board (make sure to take the time to read about the thousands of moon jellies that make Roscoe Bay their home). The trail is approximately four miles long, all uphill, but the view from the top is worth the effort (that's 8 miles total).

If you're running low, someone has piped water in from one of the streams. The hose is attached to a boat fender along the northern shore near a small waterfall. Avoid taking water after a heavy rainfall and always boil it before drinking.

Walsh Cove Marine Park, West Redonda Island (50°15.98'N, 124°48.14'W)

Located on the northeast side of West Redonda Island, Walsh Cove Marine Park is a sheltered, picturesque spot and a good opportunity to escape the more crowded anchorages of Desolation Sound. It's also an excellent place to launch a kayak and paddle around. The Gorges Islets are interesting to explore and, if you circumnavigate, offer a beautiful view out to the coastal mountains along Waddington Channel. And don't forget to look for the ancient pictographs (rock paintings) located on Butler Point – they're the best in the area.

To enter, approach from the south between West Redonda and Bluff Point (Gorges Islets). We've seen boats go through False Passage at high water but don't recommend this approach because of underwater rocks (which are visible at low tide). The anchorage itself is deep and steep-sided, so most people anchor along West Redonda Island or Gorges Islets with a stern line tied to shore, but we prefer to drop down in the middle so we can swing freely. Depths range from 5 to 25 metres (16 to 82 feet) and the holding is fair to good in rock. The anchorage is open to the south, but offers protection from the northern quadrant. However, outflow winds from Toba Inlet impact the area.

Unfortunately, Walsh Cove isn't well-charted and cruising guides offer little additional help. The Canadian chart book 3312 has no detail, neither does our primary chartplotter, CMap (which is a commercial program). And Navionics has the information all wrong, listing depths of 10 metres (33 feet) in areas where there's approximately 20 metres of water (66 feet) and 5 metres (16 feet) for 10 metres (33 feet) (though all three show the general contour of the anchorage).

Teakerne Arm Marine Park, West Redonda Island (50°11.12'N, 124°51.37'W)

Teakerne Arm has two must-see attractions: the best fresh-water lake in the Desolation Sound area and a 100-foot waterfall, both located in the northern arm.

Temporary anchorage can be found along the northwest shore in depths of 10 to 20 metres (33 to 66 feet) or near Cassel Falls. A stern line is required in either location, and there are eyebolts located throughout the anchorage for this purpose. The holding is only fair in rock and boats are subject to winds that can wrap around the northern point and funnel down the inlet. For better protection, anchor in the southern arm where the holding is fair in rock in depths of 5 to 7.5 metres (16 to 25 feet) (a stern line is required). Two nooks along the northern shore, called "Good Sex Cove" and "Great Sex Cove" by locals, offer the best shelter from northwesterly winds. But be advised, the area has been heavily logged in the past and we've fouled our anchor on old logging cables more than once.

To access the lake, take the dinghy to the park dock that sits at the eastern end of the northern arm. There you'll find a short trail that leads to the top of Cassel Falls and continues on to the lake. There's some rock scrambling involved, so it's a good idea not to wear shoes that can easily fall off your feet.

Von Donop Inlet, Cortes Island (50°11.06 N, 124°58.95 W)

Because of its long, narrow, twisting shape, Von Donop Inlet (Hàthayim Provincial Marine Park) on the northwest side of Cortes Island is a veritable hurricane hole and the best protected anchorage in the entire area. It can be blowing a gale just outside, and you'd never know it because very little wind is able to find its way inside.

The entrance shoals down to less than 2 metres (6.5 feet) at its narrowest point, and there's a rock mid-channel about half way through which can be seen at low tide. When approaching, favour the southwest side and keep the rock to port. Note: There's a saltwater lagoon in the northeast corner of the inlet that pushes a lot of current into the main channel, particularly during mid-tides.

There are several bights and coves along the 3-mile inlet that make good anchorages, but the best (and most popular) is at the head where there's plenty of swing-room and access to the park's hiking trails. The holding is good in mud throughout the inlet in depths of 4 to 12 metres (13 to 40 feet).

Access to hiking trails* can be found along the eastern shore at the head of the basin. The trails are located just beyond the outhouse and are unmarked, making things a little confusing. If you take the trail on the right, it eventually leads to an old fishery and the main road. If you turn left and continue walking another mile or so, you'll end up at Squirrel Cove where there's a general store and restaurant. The trail to the left leads to the lagoon. The lagoon can also be explored by dingy or kayak, but the entrance becomes a waterfall as its ebbing and entering and exiting (neither of which we've done) is recommended at high-water slack.

*There are aggressive wolves in the area that also use the trails.

Carrington Bay, Cortes Island (50°08.80', 125°01.00'W)

Carrington Bay is purely Cortes Island: It's beautiful, quirky, eccentric, natural, and off the beaten path all at the same time. Best known for its annual end-of-the-summer party in August when hundreds of people converge on the provincial recreational reserve by boat and by trail to spend the weekend reliving Woodstock at some basic level – local residents have even built a permanent stage for performers and their equipment that sits to the west of the lagoon rapids.

It's possible to enter the bay on either side of Jane Islet, but the southern route is wider with fewer obstructions. Anchorage can be found behind Jane Islet, the unnamed islets to the southeast, or at the head of the bay in depths of 8 to 12 metres (26 to 40 feet). The holding is fair in rock and mud. Considered to be a fair-weather anchorage, the bay is somewhat open to prevailing northwesterlies, though protection can be found behind Jane Islet and the unnamed islets to the southeast.

Carrington Bay is a quiet anchorage with a lot to offer: The rapids protecting the lagoon at the head of the bay are worth the visit alone. If you have a kayak, you can easily portage it across to explore. And there are several well-maintained and marked trails to hike along if the mood strikes you (look for the map at the trail head south of the stage area).

Rebecca Spit Marine Park, Quadra Island (50°06.34N, 125°12.00W)

Rebecca Spit Marine Park was a favourite of our dog, Sally (who sadly passed away in June of 2014), so it's a special place for us and we go back every year. With beautiful views out to the coastal mountains, it's the quintessential Pacific Northwest beach with a gently sloping shoreline piled high with driftwood and granite rocks. There are walking trails that travel one end of the spit to the other and beyond through the protection of 300 year-old cedar trees, a large grass field for kicking a ball around or lounging, and picnic tables with fire pits lining the shore.

Entrance to the anchorage is straight-forward, but it shallows up quickly close to shore. The holding is fair to good in hard sand and gravel with depths of 2 to 20 metres (6 to 66 feet). Protection from the northwest can be found throughout the park with southerly protection at the head of Drew Harbour. But whether the wind is coming from the north or the south, if it's really blowing, it can get lumpy in there.

The nearby Heriot Bay Inn (by the ferry terminal) has a garbage dump (for a fee), propane, fuel, a restaurant and a pub (all good food), laundry and moorage. There's a popular hamburger stand just up from the public wharf, a TruValue grocery store on the corner of Heriot Bay Road (David swears by their cream puffs), a BC Liquor Outlet and post office. If you need to buy more provisions than you can carry, someone from the store will drive you back to Heriot Bay.

Sum It Up Sunday

Sum It Up Sunday | Rainy Days and Mondays

Sunday, June 19, 2016TheCambrians

It's been a pretty quiet couple of weeks in the world of Cambria, slowly motoring from anchorage to anchorage – Pender Harbour, Musket Island Marine Park, Desolation Sound and now the Octopus Islands. Some days were spent floating around in the kayaks, dipping our feet in the water to help stay cool but most were spent tucked below with the heater on listening to the rain fall. The Pacific High hasn't set in yet and, until it does, we'll likely see more of the same – unsettled weather. It's a frustrating time of the year, the so-called shoulder season, but it always passes and summer will be here soon (I'm predicting Monday).

Despite the gloomy weather, the days have passed quickly and we've fallen into a routine of sorts: boat jobs in the morning, kayaking in the afternoon, dinner served with a healthy dose of politics and a movie before bed, punctuated by busy days on shore to provision or do laundry. On the days we up anchor and move, the boat jobs take a backseat to everything else . . . all work and no play, after all.

It's been somewhat busy with boats on the water and set to get busier now that the school year has ended, so we're eager to move out of the Desolation Sound Area, one of British Columbia's most popular cruising grounds. We still don't have a real plan for this season apart from the idea of spending the months of July and August along the Central and North Coast. We do, however, have a plan for the coming week (assuming the weather cooperates): a run up Bute Inlet.

We've been trying to make it up Bute Inlet, one of British Columbia's longest fjords, for years now but have always been too late in the season, so I'm excited that we might finally get our chance. There's not a lot of information written about it in the cruising guides nor are there many anchoring opportunities along the way, so it's hard to know what to expect. But if past experiences are anything to judge by, we're in for an exceptional week!

David and I are definitely fjord people – we can't get enough of them. How about you? If you're on a boat, where do you like to cruise? And if you're on land, where do you like to go to get in touch with nature?

Camping

On the Road Again | Picacho State Recreation Area

Friday, June 17, 2016TheCambrians

On our way back to the boat in March, we decided to do some late-winter camping, stopping off in Los Algodones, Mexico (near Yuma, Arizona) to see the dentist. I've already written about the places we stayed in New Mexico (Oliver Lee State Park and City of Rocks State Park), Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and Sani Dental Group and am picking up the trip where we left off: Picacho State Recreation Area in California.

Finding a place to tent camp near Yuma, Arizona isn't easy. Businesses cater to RVers and the only grounds in the area are resorts with no tent sites. There are some places to boondock (camp for free) but they lack basic facilities (like toilets) and we wanted to stay in the area in case we had a problem and needed to see the dentist again. There was always the hotel, but we were ready for a change and the best I option I could come up with was Picacho State Recreation Area, some 20 miles northwest of Yuma in California.

Picacho SRA has a somewhat interesting history. In 1826, gold was discovered and by 1890, a successful gold mining operation was in place giving birth to a town of more than 100 people. Mining supplies and passengers were delivered by paddleboat along the adjacent Colorado River. The western novelist, Zane Grey, used it as a backdrop for one of his books, Wanderer of the Wasteland, which was made into a silent film. There was a saloon, a jail, a cemetery . . . even a polo field. But when the Imperial Dam was built down-river, water access was cut off. With no easy means to ship in supplies, the town dried up and then in 1938 when a lake behind the dam was filled, it was flooded. Now it's part of the state park system and under consideration for closure due to ongoing budget cuts.

There are several well-maintained trails that run through the SRA, but I was able to walk all of them in one day. The real appeal of the park is the river – fishing, recreational boating and birding. Picacho is part of the Pacific Flyover, an important migratory path for birds, but we didn't see much in the way of wildlife, not even the feral burros that come around the campground at night.

The 24-mile road to Picacho starts in Winterhaven, California and is only paved for the first six. After that, it's poorly graded and better suited for 4-wheel drive vehicles, though we did see a couple of people pulling trailers and boats. The park lies on an 8-mile stretch of the Colorado River and has four boat-in camps with a total of 54 primitive sites, most of which are located in the main campground in the eastern section. Some of the sites, like the one we chose, still have ruins from former homesteads that highlight the character of the place – fireplaces, concrete pads, sandstone walls. There are a couple of boat ramps, chemical toilets and free solar showers, but most of the facilities are pretty basic. And at $25 a night, it was an expensive option.