An orca fishing along the shore in Clarence Strait. From Ketchikan to Petersburg, there really isn’t anything but miles along the way – not any destination anchorages at least. So we shouldn’t have been surprised when Exchange Cove, at the northern end of Clarence Strait, turned out to be a disappointment, both in terms of protection (which was fine but the anchorage itself felt exposed because of its...

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Ketchikan was a mad rush of chores – fuel, laundry, groceries, checking the internet for a complete weather picture – and we had one goal in mind: to get out of there as fast as possible. The forecast for Wednesday called for variable winds, 10 knots or less, becoming southeastly 20 knots late in the day with four-foot seas, increasing to 30 knots and six feet on Thursday...

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