Looking back, it’s difficult to believe we were in
Shearwater only a week ago . . . so much has changed. Only two hundred miles have passed under Cambria’s keel, but the landscape, at
least here in Prince Rupert, is entirely different – more “West Coast
Industrial” than “Inside Passage”.
But
I’m getting ahead of myself again.
The stretch of water along Princess Royal Channel is
arguably the most beautiful and dramatic section of the Inside Passage , especially this time of
year when the mountain ranges lining the channel are still capped with snow and
waterfalls deliver the melt to the sea in powerful flows. In hindsight, I wish we would’ve take more
time to enjoy it – Khutze Inlet, in particular, where we later learned a family
of grizzlies were feeding along the shore several days in a row. But we were anxious to reach one of our
favourite spots, Bishop Bay Hot Springs.
As always, Bishop Bay was a welcomed treat and
we lingered several days, enjoying long, hot soaks until our fingers looked
like prunes.
From Bishop Bay , we continued north to
Lowe Inlet off Grenville Channel where we finally dug out our inflatable kayaks
to explore the anchorage and simply laze about, soaking up the warm sun. Lowe Inlet is a beautiful spot and it was
tempting to stay another day but, in the end, we decided to finish out
Grenville Channel and make way for Prince Rupert on Friday. The forecast for crossing Dixon Entrance
looked good for Sunday or Monday: Alaska was calling.
It was a long day, made even longer by a dreary
landscape cloaked in an overcast sky.
Hour after hour, we slogged our way north: First through the wind and chop, then later
through the current off the Skeena River . By the time we’d finished the 60-mile
passage, we were ready to call it a day.
And we did.
Come Saturday morning, we were ready to launch the
dinghy and see what Prince Rupert was all about.
The truth is, on the surface, it looks a lot like
any other coastal city in British Columbia : Cafés, restaurants and souvenir shops line
the main road. Tourists roam around in
search of the next bear or whale watching adventure. And locals go about their daily business,
ignoring the rest.
What sets it apart is a world-class cultural museum,
The Museum of Northern British Columbia.
But the city also boasts one of the deepest natural
harbours in the world and is the fastest route to and from Asia , so it’s an important
trading port for the Asian market. In
fact, trade has played a central role in the economy here for 10,000 years –
from the first arrivals after the glaciers melted to present day. It’s the reason the city was founded and the
reason it continues to exist when so many other communities along the coast
faded away.
Day after day, ships arrive to unload cargo from Japan and China which are then loaded
onto freight trains bound for Toronto , Detroit and Chicago . Or placed onto barges and towed down to
communities in southern British Columbia . Meanwhile, other ships are here to fill their
holds with grain and coal before returning wherever it is they call home.
Like
I said . . . a world apart from the solitude of the Inside Passage .