Sum It Up Sunday
the Discovery Islands
the Inside Passage
Cortes Island at a Glance
Sunday, December 21, 2014TheCambrians
When
it comes to Cortes Island , we like the west side anchorages – Manson Bay , Gorge Harbour , Carrington Bay , Von Donop Inlet. And this week, we hit them all . . . more or
less.
The first big
storm of the fall season was on its way and we wanted better protection than
Gorge Harbour offers, so we left Saturday afternoon and harbour-hopped up the
island, stopping in the often overlooked Carrington Bay for a night. The protection and holding aren’t very good, but
we like it there: It’s quiet. It’s beautiful. And there’s plenty to do, starting with
hiking along the well-maintained trails and exploring the saltwater
lagoon.
The weather was
forecasted to take a turn for the worse early Monday morning as a group of low
pressure systems were due to hit the area and neither David nor I were in the
mood to have our sleep disturbed, so we moved up to Von Donop Inlet – a
veritable hurricane hole – for a few days.
This wasn’t our first visit to Von Donop. We stopped in several years ago during a heat
wave and found the anchorage stifling. That,
along with warnings of aggressive wolves and a shallow entrance that required a
rising tide to get in and out, landed Von Donop in our “not worth the effort
basket”. But we were wrong. It’s a lovely, quiet spot outside the busy
summer months and an excellent anchorage to ride out bad weather . . . and get
some more hiking in.
There’s been a
definite change in the weather over the past week and we’ve gone from hot,
sunny days to cool, wet ones which helped lead to our next major decision: Instead of spending time in Desolation Sound,
we’re going to head south where it’s a bit warmer. Neither one of us is interested in hiding
from storms every few days only to bash our way down the Strait of Georgia –
something we’re famous for doing – so we’re going to go while it’s nice enough
to enjoy a few stops along the way, starting with a trip back down to Gorge
Harbour on Thursday to meet back up with our buddy-boat, Salubrious.
Unfortunately,
David hurt his knee when we were in Von Donop Inlet and spent most our time in Gorge Harbour resting. In search of something to do while he
recuperated, I dinghied over to Mansons Landing and walked along the School to
Sea trail to the Co-Op store and mini-market.
It was a nice day, so I went to Hague Lake for a look around. Normally crowded with local residents and
tourists, I was surprised to find nobody else there so I did the only reasonable thing and dove into the cold but refreshing water. It was fantastic! David, who tends to miss out on all the
excitement, went to the hot tub in Gorge Harbour to soak his knee – a much
better choice considering his condition, but not nearly as much fun.
Desolation Sound
Sum It Up Sunday
Sum It Up Sunday: September 14 - 20
Sunday, December 07, 2014TheCambrians
Our
week started off much like the previous one ended – with us anchored off Rebecca Spit Marine Park on Quadra Island enjoying some of the warmest weather
we’d seen all season. Our days were
filled with long walks ashore and lazy afternoons swinging in the Air Chair
watching the world go by. After months
of moving every day or two, it was just what the doctor ordered.
Through the
wonders of Facebook and a private group I belong to, David and I were able to
re-connected with a gal we met several years ago in Princess Louisa Inlet who
spends the summers cruising with her two sons in a cuddy cabin boat. As luck would have it, they were in the area enjoying
the last of the beautiful summer weather and stopped by for a visit Monday
afternoon.
On Tuesday, we had
a visit from friends who live in nearby Campbell River : Rick, Gerri Lee and their dog,
Morgan, whom David affectionately calls “Marley”. They have a boat but, with a deteriorating
forecast, decided to take the ferry over for a quick visit and dinner. Earlier in the day while I was taking a walk,
I hatched a plan (Julia, if you’re reading this, you’re my inspiration –
always!). I came across a beach shack
that someone had built out of driftwood and decided it would be the perfect
evening for a beach fire and BBQ. You
never really know how my ideas are going to turn out because I tend to fall on
the optimistic side even when I shouldn’t.
But it was a great night. If
there’s a complaint to be made, it’s that it ended too quickly.
By Wednesday, it
was time to more on. The barometer had
been steadily falling and we wanted to go to a more protected anchorage. So, after a really enjoyable week we started
the engine for the first time and upped anchor.
With the hope of seeing Salubrious again, we motored across the
water – a whopping 9.5 nautical miles – to Gorge Harbour , Cortes Island , where we finished out the week.
Rebecca Spit was
Sally’s favourite anchorage and I was concerned that being there was going to be
difficult but, as it turned out, it was the complete opposite – I left feeling
closer to her and more at peace with her loss than I had for months. Sally’s death isn’t something David and I can
talk about much, just the mention of her still brings tears to our eyes, so
anything we can do to help ease the pain is welcomed. I wouldn’t say we found closure there but,
rather, a little bit of peace that I hope will carry us through the coming
days.
Destinations
the Discovery Islands
the Inside Passage
Octopus Islands Marine Park
Friday, December 05, 2014TheCambrians
The Octopus Islands Marine Park on the northeast side of Quadra Island has a lot to offer the visiting
boat: The anchorages are well-protected and have good holding. The kayaking is
exceptional. And, at the head of
adjacent Waiatt Bay , there’s a well-maintained trail that leads to Small
Inlet on the west side of Quadra and beautiful Newton Lake .
So, what’s
the downside?
To get there, you have to transit one
of three tidal rapids – Beazley Passage to the south, Hole in the Wall to the
east, or Upper Rapids to the north. And it’s not the easiest anchorage to
enter.
The most straightforward approach is
from the north through what the Dreamspeaker cruising guide calls “Tentacle Pass ”.
The channel offers plenty of depth but is narrow and, during the height
of summer, lined with thick kelp beds so an alert eye is necessary. The approach from the south, is more
difficult and requires careful navigation through islets, shoal and reefs. In our experience, the entrance is
well-charted, however, and can be safely transited at any time. A bow watch for either entrance is always a
good idea.
Once inside, you’ll find plenty of
anchoring opportunities. We like to drop
our hook within the park boundaries; but if it’s too crowded, adjacent Waiatt Bay is large and offers generous swinging
room for boats. Both spots offer
protection from most winds, though westerlies might be uncomfortable in Waiatt Bay .
The holding is good in mud throughout in depths of 5 to 15 metres (16 to
50 feet).
A trail at the head of Waiatt Bay leads to Small Inlet, an anchorage
on the west side of Quadra Island just off Discovery Passage. At one point, the trail forks to the left and
leads to Newton Lake . The hike to the
lake is 1.5 miles long (from Waiatt Bay ) and can be steep in parts, but is
well-marked and groomed. For easy access
to the lake, follow the trail to Granite Bay and turn left at the fist set of
large rocks you see. The water is
refreshing, especially after the hike up!
The many rocks, reefs, islets and
islands inside the park boundaries make for interesting kayaking. If you go out at low tide, it’s not uncommon
to see raccoons foraging along the shoreline.
And don’t forget to stop at the kayakers’ cabin for a look around. Over the years, passing boats have left their
(very artistic) marks behind and the cabin has grown into a wilderness museum
of sorts.
Waypoints of
Interest:
50°16.979’
N, 125°13.359’W (northern approach)
50°16.104’
N, 125°12.816’W (southern approach)
50°16.310’
N, 125°13.417’W (kayakers’ cabin approximate)