Sum It Up Sunday
the Discovery Islands
the Inside Passage
Cortes Island at a Glance
Sunday, December 21, 2014TheCambrians
When
it comes to Cortes Island , we like the west side anchorages – Manson Bay , Gorge Harbour , Carrington Bay , Von Donop Inlet. And this week, we hit them all . . . more or
less.
The first big
storm of the fall season was on its way and we wanted better protection than
Gorge Harbour offers, so we left Saturday afternoon and harbour-hopped up the
island, stopping in the often overlooked Carrington Bay for a night. The protection and holding aren’t very good, but
we like it there: It’s quiet. It’s beautiful. And there’s plenty to do, starting with
hiking along the well-maintained trails and exploring the saltwater
lagoon.
The weather was
forecasted to take a turn for the worse early Monday morning as a group of low
pressure systems were due to hit the area and neither David nor I were in the
mood to have our sleep disturbed, so we moved up to Von Donop Inlet – a
veritable hurricane hole – for a few days.
This wasn’t our first visit to Von Donop. We stopped in several years ago during a heat
wave and found the anchorage stifling. That,
along with warnings of aggressive wolves and a shallow entrance that required a
rising tide to get in and out, landed Von Donop in our “not worth the effort
basket”. But we were wrong. It’s a lovely, quiet spot outside the busy
summer months and an excellent anchorage to ride out bad weather . . . and get
some more hiking in.
There’s been a
definite change in the weather over the past week and we’ve gone from hot,
sunny days to cool, wet ones which helped lead to our next major decision: Instead of spending time in Desolation Sound,
we’re going to head south where it’s a bit warmer. Neither one of us is interested in hiding
from storms every few days only to bash our way down the Strait of Georgia –
something we’re famous for doing – so we’re going to go while it’s nice enough
to enjoy a few stops along the way, starting with a trip back down to Gorge
Harbour on Thursday to meet back up with our buddy-boat, Salubrious.
Unfortunately,
David hurt his knee when we were in Von Donop Inlet and spent most our time in Gorge Harbour resting. In search of something to do while he
recuperated, I dinghied over to Mansons Landing and walked along the School to
Sea trail to the Co-Op store and mini-market.
It was a nice day, so I went to Hague Lake for a look around. Normally crowded with local residents and
tourists, I was surprised to find nobody else there so I did the only reasonable thing and dove into the cold but refreshing water. It was fantastic! David, who tends to miss out on all the
excitement, went to the hot tub in Gorge Harbour to soak his knee – a much
better choice considering his condition, but not nearly as much fun.
Desolation Sound
Sum It Up Sunday
Sum It Up Sunday: September 14 - 20
Sunday, December 07, 2014TheCambrians
Our
week started off much like the previous one ended – with us anchored off Rebecca Spit Marine Park on Quadra Island enjoying some of the warmest weather
we’d seen all season. Our days were
filled with long walks ashore and lazy afternoons swinging in the Air Chair
watching the world go by. After months
of moving every day or two, it was just what the doctor ordered.
Through the
wonders of Facebook and a private group I belong to, David and I were able to
re-connected with a gal we met several years ago in Princess Louisa Inlet who
spends the summers cruising with her two sons in a cuddy cabin boat. As luck would have it, they were in the area enjoying
the last of the beautiful summer weather and stopped by for a visit Monday
afternoon.
On Tuesday, we had
a visit from friends who live in nearby Campbell River : Rick, Gerri Lee and their dog,
Morgan, whom David affectionately calls “Marley”. They have a boat but, with a deteriorating
forecast, decided to take the ferry over for a quick visit and dinner. Earlier in the day while I was taking a walk,
I hatched a plan (Julia, if you’re reading this, you’re my inspiration –
always!). I came across a beach shack
that someone had built out of driftwood and decided it would be the perfect
evening for a beach fire and BBQ. You
never really know how my ideas are going to turn out because I tend to fall on
the optimistic side even when I shouldn’t.
But it was a great night. If
there’s a complaint to be made, it’s that it ended too quickly.
By Wednesday, it
was time to more on. The barometer had
been steadily falling and we wanted to go to a more protected anchorage. So, after a really enjoyable week we started
the engine for the first time and upped anchor.
With the hope of seeing Salubrious again, we motored across the
water – a whopping 9.5 nautical miles – to Gorge Harbour , Cortes Island , where we finished out the week.
Rebecca Spit was
Sally’s favourite anchorage and I was concerned that being there was going to be
difficult but, as it turned out, it was the complete opposite – I left feeling
closer to her and more at peace with her loss than I had for months. Sally’s death isn’t something David and I can
talk about much, just the mention of her still brings tears to our eyes, so
anything we can do to help ease the pain is welcomed. I wouldn’t say we found closure there but,
rather, a little bit of peace that I hope will carry us through the coming
days.
Destinations
the Discovery Islands
the Inside Passage
Octopus Islands Marine Park
Friday, December 05, 2014TheCambrians
The Octopus Islands Marine Park on the northeast side of Quadra Island has a lot to offer the visiting
boat: The anchorages are well-protected and have good holding. The kayaking is
exceptional. And, at the head of
adjacent Waiatt Bay , there’s a well-maintained trail that leads to Small
Inlet on the west side of Quadra and beautiful Newton Lake .
So, what’s
the downside?
To get there, you have to transit one
of three tidal rapids – Beazley Passage to the south, Hole in the Wall to the
east, or Upper Rapids to the north. And it’s not the easiest anchorage to
enter.
The most straightforward approach is
from the north through what the Dreamspeaker cruising guide calls “Tentacle Pass ”.
The channel offers plenty of depth but is narrow and, during the height
of summer, lined with thick kelp beds so an alert eye is necessary. The approach from the south, is more
difficult and requires careful navigation through islets, shoal and reefs. In our experience, the entrance is
well-charted, however, and can be safely transited at any time. A bow watch for either entrance is always a
good idea.
Once inside, you’ll find plenty of
anchoring opportunities. We like to drop
our hook within the park boundaries; but if it’s too crowded, adjacent Waiatt Bay is large and offers generous swinging
room for boats. Both spots offer
protection from most winds, though westerlies might be uncomfortable in Waiatt Bay .
The holding is good in mud throughout in depths of 5 to 15 metres (16 to
50 feet).
A trail at the head of Waiatt Bay leads to Small Inlet, an anchorage
on the west side of Quadra Island just off Discovery Passage. At one point, the trail forks to the left and
leads to Newton Lake . The hike to the
lake is 1.5 miles long (from Waiatt Bay ) and can be steep in parts, but is
well-marked and groomed. For easy access
to the lake, follow the trail to Granite Bay and turn left at the fist set of
large rocks you see. The water is
refreshing, especially after the hike up!
The many rocks, reefs, islets and
islands inside the park boundaries make for interesting kayaking. If you go out at low tide, it’s not uncommon
to see raccoons foraging along the shoreline.
And don’t forget to stop at the kayakers’ cabin for a look around. Over the years, passing boats have left their
(very artistic) marks behind and the cabin has grown into a wilderness museum
of sorts.
Waypoints of
Interest:
50°16.979’
N, 125°13.359’W (northern approach)
50°16.104’
N, 125°12.816’W (southern approach)
50°16.310’
N, 125°13.417’W (kayakers’ cabin approximate)
Johnstone Strait
Sum It Up Sunday
the Discovery Islands
Adventures in Johnstone Strait
Sunday, November 30, 2014TheCambrians
This week brought a lot of changes – the biggest being that, after two months, we
separated with Salubrious. We’re
going to miss them, but it was time.
They needed to go into Port McNeill for provisions and we simple didn’t
have the heart to return to the place where we said good-bye to our Sally. Not now. Maybe not ever. So we continued south with one thought on our
minds – making miles. And that’s exactly
what we did.
Sunday morning started off
slow as we motored down Queen Charlotte Strait in the fog and mist. There were logs and kelp patches everywhere,
and it was a challenge to avoid hitting the debris in the poor visibility – in
fact, we may have nicked a log or two. But
things picked up by the afternoon and we went screaming down Blackfish sound at
9 to 9.5 knots. Screaming is a relative
term, though, because a little later we found ourselves motoring at a whopping
12.2 in Blackney Passage before hitting a wall and dropping down to 5.5. We made it all the way down to Port Neville –
58 miles, not a bad day’s work – before the tide turned and we ran out of
steam. Currents are amazing things!
The forecast for Monday called
for a ridge of high pressure to pass over Vancouver Island with gale-force northwest winds ahead of the
front. Johnstone Strait was looking at 20 knots increasing to 30 late in the morning. It looked much better for Tuesday but, after
a horrible night’s sleep, I really wanted to get out of Port Neville (never
good reason to leave) so I deferred to David.
We decided to give it another day . . . and then changed our minds 30
minutes later.
In hindsight, we should have
waited. We had a fantastic run down Johnstone Strait , reaching over 12 knots through Race Passage, but had our hands full
with a spring tide, strong winds, rough seas, major currents and debris. The weather was from behind us but, had we
waited until Tuesday, we probably could have put a sail out and had a more
relaxed ride down the strait. But we
were anxious to put the miles behind us, so we did. And by early Monday evening, we were tucked
inside the Discovery Islands at one of our favourite anchorages – Octopus Islands Marine Park .
We spent four really nice nights anchored in
Octopus Islands enjoying the sunshine and paddling around in the kayaks
watching the raccoons feed at low tide and finally making a visit to the
kayakers’ cabin where passing boats leave their mark behind, most in a very
artistic way. I hiked up to Newton Lake a couple of times for a quick swim while David stayed on the boat and
tended to some maintenance (he doesn’t like to hike). The water was really cold, but refreshing and
I managed to have the lake to myself both times. I also managed to put a hole in David’s kayak
when I snagged it on a crusty rock. We
love the inflatables, but they definitely have their shortcomings!
As much as we enjoyed our time
in Octopus, we were running low on fresh provisions so we made the trip down to
Rebecca Spit Marine Park on Friday. And with nowhere to
go and nothing to do, we dropped anchor, pulled out the Air Chair and called it
a week.
Holidays
Living Aboard a Boat
Notes From the Dockside
Giving Thanks
Thursday, November 27, 2014TheCambrians
Blog ideas come in all shapes and
sizes at different time of the day –
on my morning walk, while having dinner, in my sleep. This one was born in the shower.
It started off as a simple thought: I need to
come up with a nice way to say Happy Thanksgiving on our Facebook page. I decided to post a picture of the boat at anchor with the text, “I’m
grateful for it all.” But that just
didn’t seem to cut it. I wanted to say
more.
David and I have been cruising for 13 years, though
not in a conventional way. We set out to
see the world and discovered that we enjoyed living in different countries, on
a boat, for long periods of time while exploring and meeting new people. We’re both retired and haven’t worked since
2001 . . . we’re very fortunate. But,
like a lot of cruisers, I tend to underplay our lifestyle as if I’m somehow
embarrassed at its greatness. Or worse,
afraid I don’t deserve it. But I
do. We both do: David and I have worked very hard over the years
to get where we’re at in life, him undeniable more so than me. And we continue to work hard: Cruising isn’t easy. It is, however, extremely rewarding.
But, apart from the blog, we don’t say much about
our way of life – even then, I hold back because I’ve heard “must be nice”
covered in sarcasm one too many times along the way. And to be honest, there are people in our
lives who aren’t very interested: some because they’re envious and others
because they have no basis of understanding of how we live. This issue isn’t unique to us. Thousands of other cruisers have the same
problem. We get where it comes from,
have accepted it and have long since moved on.
The truth is, though, we have an amazing life: We sail the ocean with nothing to keep us
company except the stars. We experience
the kindness of strangers who later become life-long friends. We sail amongst the mountains where we bathe
in waterfalls and soak in natural hot springs . We watch
the whales frolic and dive from the deck of our home. We follow bears as they feed along the shore
in our own backyard. We pursue our
passions – the things that bring joy to our daily lives – and still have time
to watch the sun set in the company of the one we love the most.
And I’m grateful for it
all . . . today and every day!
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.
We made our first trip to Fury Cove last season after spending a month or so cruising the Central Coast while we
waited for northwesterly winds to set in along the West Coast of Vancouver
Island. We arrived late in the afternoon
and had an early departure planned for the following morning, which gave us just
enough time to take Sally, the dog, to shore a couple of times. I’m almost embarrassed to admit it, but we
weren’t impressed and we had no real desire to come back. As far as we were concerned, Fury Cove was
merely a stop along the way.
But it’s so much more than that.
The Good
Fury Cove sits within the
boundaries of Penrose Island Provincial Marine Park and makes an excellent base to
explore the area by kayak or dinghy. If
you don’t have much time, at the very least you have to step outside the
anchorage and visit the west side of Fury Island where secluded white sand and
shell midden beaches with incredible views await you. The only access is by water, which is exposed
to Fitz Hugh and Queen Charlotte sounds, so settled conditions are a must. But even if you have to wait a day or more to
get there, you won’t be disappointed.
Inside Fury Cove, the anchorage is
well-protected with the added benefit of being able to see the weather
conditions outside in Fitz Hugh Sound .
The anchorage is large enough to accommodate more than 20 boats
comfortably and holding is good in sand in mud in depths of 5 to 15 metres (16
to 50 feet). However, when 40+ knot
southeasterly winds moved through the area earlier in the season, a couple on a
sailboat told us that while they were safe, Fury Cove was uncomfortable. And in the case of strong southwest winds, we
personally wouldn’t want to be there.
The
Bad
“Bad” is probably an exaggeration
for most people, but Fury Cove is a popular anchorage and it’s not unusual to
find 10 to 20 boats inside, especially during the busier months of July and
August. The good news is there’s plenty
of room to swing.
And the
Ugly
Entering Fury Cove can be a little
tricky, especially on a day when the wind is blowing from the southwest and
there’s a corresponding ocean swell. But
the channel, which is located to the south of Cleve Island , is wide and has plenty of depth. When approaching, it’s important not to
confuse the main channel with Breaker Pass to the north between Fury Island and
Cleve Island, which is narrow and shallow but passable during settled
conditions – though, in our opinion, unadvisable for cruising boats.
The entrance to Fury Cove itself
is a third of a mile beyond Cleve Island and, although shallow, has 3.7
metres (12 feet) at zero tide and free from obstacles mid-channel. I want to restate that, despite the fact that
Fury Cove offers good protection in most weather, we would seek an alternate
anchorage during stormy conditions.
Waypoints
of Interest
Main Approach: 51°28.629’N,
127°45.553’W
Disclaimer: This blog article is not to be used for
navigation. It is solely an opinion
based on our personal experience in Fury Cove during settled weather
conditions. What worked for us at one
particular time is no guarantee or indication that it will work for
others. There are no services in the
immediate area and any boat that enters should be self-sufficient.
Best New Things
Boat Project
Living Aboard a Boat
Insulated Portlights: The Best New Thing In the Boat
Friday, November 21, 2014TheCambrians
A couple of months ago, I
started a series on the blog called “The Best New Thing In
the Boat.” Well, “series” might be a
stretch since I’ve only written one other post, but you have to start somewhere. And now that I’ve started, it’s time to build
on it.
First,
a little background.
We have a Sirus satellite radio on board
and I used to listen to the Rachel Maddow Show on MSNBC almost every day (I’ve
since been treated for my addiction and now it’s all Classic Vinyl or BB King
Bluesville for me!). Rachel does a segment from time to time called, “The
Best New Thing In the World” where she introduces something new that’s caught
her attention. It can be a product, an idea or something somebody has
done, and it was her segment that inspired me to start this “series”. My
first post was about our new portable freezer. And while I have to admit that our second item isn’t as “sexy” or
life-changing, it really is “The Best New Thing In the Boat” – window insulation!
Winter has made its return and the entire
country has been blasted with Arctic temperatures thanks to Typhoon Nuri out of Japan . It’s been no different here in the Pacific Northwest and
last week we experienced below freezing temperatures that left frost on the
decks and the portlights dripping with condensation.
For years, friends have been raving about
window insulation. You know the stuff – the
kits they sell with double-sided tape and a plastic sheet that are supposed to
seal out the cold air and keep things warmer.
But, for one reason or another, we hadn’t gotten around to trying it
until last week and, I have to say, we’re impressed!
I was dubious at first and couldn’t see how
a very light piece of plastic was going to keep all that dew at bay. After all, when it comes to living-aboard during
the winter months, we are Cambria ’s biggest
enemy. But it does. We still get some drops around the port rims
from the cold (which are aluminum) and have to wipe them on occasion, but the
windows themselves are dry as can be. Even
cooking, which used to steam up every portlight and hatch on the boat, is no
longer an issue. IF the plastic film
gets foggy at all, it clears up in minutes.
It’s still early days but both David and I
are incredibly happy with the results:
The boat’s warmer, dryer and a lot more comfortable – all for under $10.
The Product:
There are several brands out there, but
they’re all basically the same thing – a thin sheet of plastic they call
“shrink” wrap (it doesn’t actually shrink) and heavy-duty double-sided
tape. We opted for the large window kit
from Duck because that’s all that was on the shelf the day we finally
remembered to look for it. We had plenty
of window film left over but ran short of tape.
We ended up purchasing a roll of Frost King which did the job but I
found more difficult to work with than the Duck brand.
Living Aboard a Boat
The Central Coast
the Inside Passage
A (Very Good) Day in the Life
Wednesday, November 19, 2014TheCambrians
Over the last 15 years, David and I have had our fair
share of exceptional days on the
water, too many to mention in fact. But we both agree that the day we
discovered the western beach on Fury Island in British Columbia ’s Central Coast ranks high
on the list of bests.
It
started with the promise of a beautiful white midden beach on the west side of Fury Island and a need to explore . . .
. . . followed by the need
to be silly . . .
. . . and swing in the
breeze.
But the greatest need of
all, was to take it all in.